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Citrine
Citrine is the stone for the month of November. Many people have
come to know and love this
stone under the name gold topaz, or
Madeira
or Spanish topaz; although in actual fact, it has very little in
common with the higher-quality gemstone topaz - except for a few
nuances of color. Thus, the history of the citrine is closely
interwoven with that of the topaz, and coincides with it completely
when it comes to the interpretation of alleged miraculous powers.
However, the citrine is a member of the large quartz family, a
family that, with its multitude of colors and very various
structures, offers gemstone lovers almost everything their hearts
desire in terms of adornment and decoration, from absolutely clear
rock crystal to black onyx. In addition, it does so at prices, which
are by no means unaffordable.
The name is derived from the color - the yellow of the lemon - ,
although the most sought-after stones have a clear, radiant
yellowish to brownish red. Like all crystal quartzes, the citrine
has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs scale and is thus, to a large
extent, insensitive to scratches. It will
not immediately take offense at being knocked about either, since
its cleavage properties are non-existent. Even if their refractive
index is relatively low, the yellow stones have just that mellow,
warm tone that seems to have captured the last glow of autumn. Like
golden Rhine wine or sparkling Madeira, heavy and sweet, citrine jewelry shimmers and
brings a hint of sunshine to those dull November days.
There are not many yellow gemstones in the world of jewels. A
diamond or a sapphire may be yellow - those will be expensive -, or
sometimes a tourmaline or chrysoberyl, though these tend toward
green somewhat, a golden beryl or even a pure topaz, which we will
mention again later on. However, the citrine fulfils everyone's
color wishes, from lemon yellow to reddish brown.
Rare though
it is, yellow does in fact occur in quartz in Nature, if seldom,
when there are traces of iron in the silicon dioxide. Historically,
it has been found in Spain,
on the Scottish island of Arran, in France,
Hungary
and in several mines overseas. Perhaps the citrine would not have
been talked about any more at all if, in the middle of the 18th
century, it had not been for the discovery that amethysts and smoky
quartzes can also be rendered yellow by so-called burning. This heat
treatment at temperatures of between 470 and 560 degrees has to be
carried out very carefully and requires a great deal of experience.
However, in the course of 200 years, its application has become so
much a matter of course that most of the stones available in the
trade today are in fact burnt amethysts or smoky quartzes. Only a
trained specialist can recognize the signs of heat treatment at all,
burnt stones having subtle stripes whilst the yellow of natural ones
is cloudy.
In
Europe, the boom on these yellow to reddish crystal quartzes did not
begin until, in the 1930s, expatriate agate cutters from
Idar-Oberstein sent large quantities of citrine back home, along
with amethyst and agate, from Brazil
and Uruguay.
Thus, the golden-yellow quartzes contributed to Idar-Oberstein's
becoming - and remaining - one of the world's great gemstone
centers. Just as they had been used to doing with agate and other
kinds of quartz, the cutters faceted the citrine using large,
rotating sandstones over decades. The raw stone was actually held in
the cutter's hand during this process. If you give that a little
thought, it will occur to you just how skilled the cutters from the
Hunsrück really were.

The supply
of Europe
with sufficient raw material came just at the right moment for the
nascent upheaval in social conditions. As the bourgeoisie grew in
strength, the demand for jeweler across a broader spectrum of social
strata also grew, and the citrine found a permanent niche for
itself. Since until then it was only the topaz, which was known and
used as a gold-colored gemstone, the yellow and brown crystal
quartzes quickly became very popular among the women, being known as
gold topaz or smoky topaz, or by the double-barreled names that
proclaimed their origin. However, they were also found in step and
table cuts as cuff links and rings in the evening wardrobe of fine
gentlemen. At the beginning, perhaps, the notion "it's all on the
surface" may have played a part. But there was no other stone to
which the wrong name clung as doggedly as the citrine. Even now,
jeweler enthusiasts with no specialist knowledge may be astounded
when you tell them that their 'gold topaz' is a citrine, in other
words not a topaz at all, but quartz.
So
what is it that constitutes the difference between the real topaz
and the citrine? A fluorine aluminum silicate in chemical terms, the
topaz is considerably harder and heavier than quartz, and it has a
higher refractive index, which endows it with more fire when the
color is good. It does have one weakness: its good cleavage q ualities,
which must be taken into account when it is being worked on. It can
be found in all the colors of the rainbow and has been known to Man
for at least 2000 years. It has not been proved beyond doubt whether
the name comes from Sanskrit or Greek, though the Greek name 'topazos'
means 'green gemstone'. The Romans dedicated the topaz to Jupiter.
The
color in which the topaz is most commonly found is yellow, and that
is the color in which it occurs in one of the major German gemstone
rocks, the Schneckenstein (a topaz-bearing rock said to resemble a
snail) in Saxony. In the 18th century, it was mined there during a
period of over 60 years. However, most of the crystals were hardly a
centimeter in diameter. You had to go to Siberia or Brazil to find crystals as large
as your fist. Having said that, anyone who is interested can
convince himself of the beauty of cut specimens in the topaz set in Dresden's Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). The
enormous and magnificent topaz from the Portuguese crown, the
Braganza, was for a long time thought to be a diamond.

In
mysticism, the topaz is attributed with a cooling, styptic and
appetizing effect. It is said to dispel sadness, anger and nocturnal
fears, to warn its wearer of poisons and protect him or her from
sudden death. It is reputed to make men handsome and intelligent and
sterile women fertile and happy. However, it is probably better not
to rely too much on its magical powers, since it was also claimed
that you could immerse your hand in boiling water after a topaz had
been thrown into it and retract it again unharmed!
In
the Empire style, the topaz was still widespread, but then the more
reasonably priced citrine took over from it and even usurped its
name. Since then, the topaz has been a rather exotic figure in the
jeweler trade, and has been given the additional predicate 'pure' to
make it clear that the topaz, not the quartz topaz, is meant. And it
is still waiting for its comeback to this day.
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